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THE COSMETIC REPORT
January 29, 2004

For all of you who have asked about the Uslu Airbrush makeup system, I am pleased to share our guest reviewer Evelyn's review. This system is high-end, certainly not for everyone, but it has sparked increased interest in the more accessible "air brush" makeup from brands like Classified Cosmetics (ERA Face) and Sally Hansen (Fast and Flawless Airbrush Makeup).

Evelyn is a 44 year-old living in Toronto. A self-confessed cosmetics junkie, she loves trying new brands - which has made her wonder if she shouldn't have become a makeup artist way back when. She was in search of the elusive perfect red lipstick for years and thinks she may have found it in Chanel Dragon.

Uslu Airlines Airbrush Makeup System
Airbrushed makeup has been a staple on film and television sets for years. A tiny amount of pigment is misted onto skin with an airbrush specially made for this purpose, for a fine and flawless finish. (Commercial airbrushes made for art work should never be used for makeup as the excessive pressure can cause embolisms. Makeup airbrush systems have been re-engineered to be safe for use on skin.) Of course, it stands to reason that what works well on-screen should also be desirable to consumers who want a perfect finish for their makeup.

Last year, German makeup artist Feride Uslu developed an airbrush and cosmetics under the name Uslu Airlines. This isn't the first such system available to the average makeup buyer, but Uslu says her product is more portable and easier to use. (Other companies have jumped on the airbrush bandwagon with tinned aerosol makeup - similar in principle but not necessarily in results.) Uslu Airlines launched at the fashion-forward shop Colette, in Paris, with US buyers able to get theirs at Barneys New York. The line also recently became available in Canada at Holt Renfrew's Toronto flagship store.

The compressor and airbrush are definitely sleek. They come packaged in a slim cardboard briefcase with several electrical adapters that make the system functional no matter what the electrical current (the compressor also has an internal rechargeable battery). There is also a CD-ROM showing how others have learned to use the system, an instruction booklet and two wands to assist with cleaning the unit. The off-white rubberized compressor itself is about the size of two playing cards side-by-side; the airbrush (available in black or off-white) resembles a stubby pencil. The compressor opens in two - the airbrush can be packed inside for storage or travel.

The system, which retails for $461 US ($660 Canadian), does not come with any cosmetics. These will cost you an additional $38 US ($54 Canadian) each for a generous sized bottle. Keep in mind that you need only 3-5 small drops to do an entire face, so knowing this might lessen the sticker shock somewhat. There is a good assortment of foundation colors, blushes and mostly primary colors (with some pastels and metallics) that can be used on their own or blended to create your own palette on eyes or elsewhere on the face.

Using the system doesn't require too much in the way of a learning curve. The water-based cosmetics must be shaken vigorously before squeezing a few drops from the nozzle-tipped bottles. It's also advisable to tap the airbrush gently a couple of times once the liquid is in it. When spraying on the foundation, it's recommended that you close your eyes, hold the brush about four inches away and keep it moving in a circular motion. You are told to use the feel of the mist to guide you - it does work, but you can also do one side at a time and keep one (or both) eyes open. Mascara and an eyebrow brush or pencil are musts - otherwise the foundation on these areas is obvious and odd-looking.

Airbrushing is great, especially if you find it difficult to obtain a very sheer finish with liquid or powder foundations. The makeup goes on easily and, of course, you can spray on more if you want a more opaque look; you can also use your other cosmetics as you please. It dries quickly and does not require powder to set it. This can be an advantage, but if you've oversprayed, or don't like the effect, it can be difficult to correct without powdering over or removing it completely.

My own system had a few hiccups. One of the colors was too thick in the bottle and had to be returned. I've noticed that the cosmetics have a tendency to thicken in the nozzle area of the bottle, which requires that you rinse out that part thoroughly before using. The system's compressor also began working erratically about two weeks after I bought it (sometimes there would be power, sometimes not, even with the unit plugged in), necessitating an exchange. In my experience, the airbrush itself can also be a bit balky. If the makeup is not well shaken, it may clog the nozzle. Whenever mine has refused to spray, I've rinsed it thoroughly (it comes apart completely for cleaning) and the problem has been quickly resolved. As a result, I'd advise keeping the airbrush very clean - I have found that rinsing before and after use helps keep it working properly, spraying onto a piece of tissue to be certain there's no pigment residue.

I like the looks you can get with the system, and as I become more accustomed to putting on eye shadow as well as blush and foundation, I think I will enjoy it more. I have found that where the system really shines is in the foundations, highlighters and bronzer, which go on smoothly and with a natural looking finish. Blush, especially brighter colors, takes some practice to avoid a Bozo The Clown result. In general, I find the color selection a bit limited for shadows unless you plan to spend time blending.

Given my at-times frustrating experiences, I think Uslu needs to pay more attention to the quality control of their cosmetics. Since other airbrush cosmetics are supposed to work with the Uslu system, I would like to try some offered by other manufacturers to see the potential results. Unfortunately, these tend to be available online only (and most do not ship to Canada).

There is no question that Uslu Airlines is a high-end indulgence for people who love makeup. Although I've been annoyed when the system did not function as it should (especially given the cost), I plan to keep it and continue working with it. For me, the benefits outweigh the difficulties. I think the makeup will be particularly useful in the humid summer days, as it dries quickly and stays on well all day. To find out more about Uslu Airlines (including colour charts and photos of the equipment), go to usluairlines.com.

Thanks for that report, Evelyn. We hope you enjoyed this issue of The Cosmetic Report!


 

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