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THE COSMETIC REPORT
November 11, 2004

Welcome to the Cosmetic Report newsletter. It's our goal to bring you unbiased information about cosmetic products and trends so you can make educated buying decisions. If you've been searching for straightforward beauty information and advice, you've found it here. The Cosmetic Connection Panel of reviewers are consumers just like you who face the same issues and challenges, and look to the beauty industry to help solve them.

Vicky is a 38 year old office manager who has always loved makeup and skincare products. She lives in Scottsdale, Arizona where the dry climate and high summer temperatures make taking care of your skin and melt-proofing your makeup a challenge! Vicky has dark brown curly hair, dark brown eyes, and a medium/light olive complexion. Her skin is normal-to-oily (t-zone) with large pores and occasional breakouts. Her hair is fine, highlighted, on the dry side, and Vicky regularly straightens it with a ceramic flat iron.

About 5 or 6 months ago I read in several different articles that "scrubs" have been elevated to the stature of "polishers" and microdermabrasion systems. You mean that the old Apri apricot facial scrub (I'm dating myself, aren't I?) that I discovered in my mid-teens has evolved to include more refined formulas?

Anyway, I was curious to read about how the formulas are actually different from products that have been called "exfoliators" for years. It seems that these new scrubs are actually products that try to mimic the effect of having a microdermabrasion done in a dermatologist's office.

My first entree into this new world was Estee Lauder MicroD Thermal Refinisher ($45). I had read some information about it from Estee Lauder's website and decided to buy it. The enclosed leaflet instructed me to wet my face before applying a nickel-sized amount of MicroD. It also recommended that I follow the diagrams for massaging it into my skin for about 2 minutes. The big feature about MicroD is that it warms up as you massage it around your face, and the heat supposedly opens the pores so they can be cleaned thoroughly. I don't think the scrub generates enough heat to actually open the pores enough to do any good, but the warming sensation feels nice! Even though the small round particles are suspended in a creamy formula, I'd recommend applying light pressure; since the formula is more sophisticated, the idea is to massage with a light pressure but for a full 2 minutes. It can irritate more sensitive skins, but I think if you use good judgment in how many times a week you use it and how hard you scrub, you shouldn't experience any irritation.

Once I finished up my tube of MicroD (it took about 2 1/2 months) I tried another product that had gotten raves on a number of websites. Dr. Brandt Microdermabrasion in a Jar ($75) was touted as being as close to a professional procedure as you can get without going to the doctor. The formula contains magnesium oxide crystals as the main exfoliating ingredient. The crystals polish your skin, smoothing away the top layer to reveal fresh new skin underneath. The directions say to wet your skin before beginning, then take a nickel-size amount and massage it onto the skin for 1-3 minutes; it also suggests to do this 2-3 times per week, allowing at least 2 days in between each treatment. This exfoliator smelled fresh and lemony, and the crystals in the formula felt round and smooth, with no jagged edges that could potentially tear the skin. It was easy to rinse off completely and my skin didn't feel tight afterward.

The third product I tried was Lush Ocean Salt ($12.95). Now, Lush is a different kind of company. It makes all of its products in small batches to ensure freshness, and all of the ingredients you can pretty much eat - that's how natural they are. The company focuses on not using any chemicals in its products that can potentially irritate skin. They go so far as to print the date the product was made and its expiration date! Lush Ocean Salt is actually made with two different sizes of sea salt, small and large grains, so when you massage it across your face you can actually feel the difference of the grains. The salt is suspended in a light creamy formula that doesn't really act as a buffer - you can definitely feels those grains against your skin. It does have a tangy fragrance to it that is refreshing. Since it is made with real salt, I would caution not to get any near the eyes since it can really sting!

After using these products I have to say that I have become a fan of microdermabrasion creams. I noticed a huge difference in the way my skin looked and felt with regular use of this type of product. It felt smoother than it ever has been; creams and treatments are absorbed better and therefore more effective. I noticed my skin more even-toned and luminous (really!). Any little acne spots are gone, and those little lines from the bottom of your nose to the corners of your mouth are much less apparent.

I think three things contribute to making these creams more efficient than the normal scrubs: the formulas are more sophisticated, the length of time you scrub the skin (2-3 minutes), and the frequency per week (twice per week). After consistently doing this for the past few months, I will definitely make this a part of my permanent skincare routine.

As for which product I liked the best, it would have to be Dr. Brandt's hands down, with Estee Lauder in second place.

We hope you enjoyed this issue of The Cosmetic Report!


 

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