Sage Advice Skin Care
report by Deanna of the Cosmetic Connection Product Panel
This review is going to be a long one, so get a cup of tea or what ever is your "poison" and take a few minutes.
First, let me give you a little background about myself. I had "perfect" skin, albeit a little oily, until about the age of 26 when I suddenly developed "adult acne." I have been searching for products since that time that would clear my skin. As I've gotten older (I'm now 34 and don't mind telling you this, if you keep it a secret ;-)), I've added to my skin care product search the requirement that the products I use should not only clear my skin, but help my aging skin as well. I was a confirmed Proactiv Solution user, however, Proactiv doesn't do much to help fine lines and wrinkles. This was my only problem with the line. So, after reading Heather's review of Sage skin care and joining the Cosmetic Connection panel, and getting many requests from you, the readers, I decided to try Sage to see what it had to offer.
I've used Sage for about three months now, through part of the summer and the beginning of fall, and I'd like to share with you my Sage experience. I must say that this is one line that I was happy that I used for an extended period of time. I did experience some irritation for the first few weeks and I am really glad that I stuck with the line through the entire 3 month period; had I written before, I may have given erroneous information.
Before I start, though, here are a few extra details about the regimen I used, the web site, the product packaging and the customer service.
The best regimen for me during the day during the summer months turned out to be: Gelloid moisturizer, extra strength corrective grains, regular strength cleanser, SPF 25, 20% Smoothing Gel and a reformulated Hydrating Emulsion with extra moisture. Now that it is fall I've had to readjust to using the Gelloid moisturizer instead of the reformulated Hydrating Emulsion as well as the 20% Smoothing Cream instead of the gel. The best regimen for evening turned out to be extra strength corrective grains, regular strength cleanser, icing, 20% Smoothing Gel or Smoothing Cream and extra strength Miracle Zit. I know many people have a concern about icing, so let me address this now. I've been using the icing technique and it is not new to me, since I began modeling at about the age of 16. I have always found that it reduces inflammation, so I wasn't worried about doing it in conjunction with these products. I have not seen any side effects from icing over the years, however, I do recommend wetting the ice and the face before performing the procedure as it does help to reduce the "drag" on the skin.
The website contains a great deal of good, common sense information about skin care, so even if you don't buy the line, I would recommend at least a perusal of the site to review the information. Also, the product use instructions are listed there, not only in print but via voice (wave file) as well. I found the list of comedogenic ingredients to be an interesting addition to the lists given to me by my dermatologist. Many of the same ingredients are listed, however, the Sage list does include some that my dermatologist's list does not and my dermatologist's list does contain some that the Sage list does not. (These are the lists I use when I examine products for review. If both the derm doctor and Barbara agree on an ingredient being comedogenic, I list it as such in my review, if only the Sage list mentions it, I just list it as an ingredient in the products and leave it to the readers to decide.)
The product packaging is VERY minimal. These are basic, everyday, white bottles and jars with computer generated (I think) labels. Not very pretty on the vanity, if this is an interest for you. You are definitely paying for product here, people. The labels do peel and rub off, especially when wet (and they are going to get wet), so download the instruction sheets and put them somewhere safe. You may need them. Unfortunately, Ms. Strickland does not put ingredient information on the product labels, so you will have to request that information from her.
The customer service is excellent - actually, superb. Any questions I had were answered via email within the hour and when I was having problems with the Miracle Zit (more on that later), I got a personal phone call to clear up the matter. My only problem in this arena was when I submitted my profile before trying the products I received no answer. I resubmitted my profile and still received no answer. I went ahead and bought the "Acne Try Me Pack" at $39.95 and within 24 hours I had an answer. It turned out that I had actually bought the wrong one for my skin type, which is what I was trying to avoid doing in the first place, and had to buy the "Oily Skin Try Me Pack" at $49.95 as well. Oh well, at least I got to try a lot of the products and there is about six to eight weeks of product to get the skin through the adjustment period. Now to the review.
Corrective Grains and Extra Strength Corrective Grains (4oz for $17.50)
Both of these products are excellent exfoliants. And, of course, there are no comedogenic ingredients. The extra strength grains do contain more of the polyethylene beads as well as a little more added detergent, however both of these products are aloe vera based and gentle. Ms. Strickland takes great pains to remind customers that these grains are to be used gently. This is very important, especially when using the 20% glycolic acid gel. What I loved about both products was that they could be applied right over makeup. The regular strength grains have a pleasant aroma, mandarin orange or peachy smell; however, the extra strength grains smell more "detergent-y".
Facial Shampoo and Extra Strength Facial Shampoo (4oz for $17.50)
Again, both of these products are excellent. They "whip away" any traces of makeup, oil, and "dirt" quickly and easily. I personally prefer the regular strength cleanser. I found the extra strength cleanser to be a little drying and it had that strong "detergent-y" smell to it. I agree with Heather that the regular strength cleanser is my absolute favorite cleanser of all time and I would highly recommend it for anyone, not just the acne prone.
Biological Clay Mask (4oz for $40)
This is a "super creamy" clay mask with a bit of a "sting" to it. I found that the product was so creamy, it's a bit difficult to get the prescribed 1/8-inch thickness on the face. I absolutely loved what this product did for my skin. It exfoliated my skin, leaving it feeling clean and soft. My skin literally glowed after using this product and it needs only to be left on for 15 minutes, a definite plus for me as a busy mother. Unlike many products of this type, this clay mask does not need to dry on the face to do its job.
SPF 25 Sunscreen (4oz for $21)
First of all, let me say that you will definitely need a sunscreen when using this product line. This sunscreen that comes with the "Try Me Pack" is applied over wet skin and only a pea sized drop is needed to cover the face and neck, so it will last you a long time; in fact, I'm still using the first bottle that I purchased. I don't mind telling you that initially, I felt that as a woman of color, most of my sunscreen was "built in"; however, I have found within the last two years or so that I do have sun damage to my skin, so I've been searching for a sunscreen that works. Until now, I hated sunscreens for a number of reasons - usually they are sticky and tacky and impede my makeup finish because titanium dioxide usually causes "ashiness and graying" on the skin of women of color. I don't know how Ms. Strickland did it, but this product does NOT cause any of the "graying" I normally associate with titanium dioxide products. In fact, I even tried this product on my husband, who is a dark "Coca-Cola" brown and once the product dried, even on his dark skin, no "ashiness." Women of color everywhere, if you buy nothing else from Sage, get this product! Finally, there is a sunscreen that works for us.
6%, 12% and 20% Smoothing Creams and 20% Smoothing Gel (2oz for $60)
Personally, I found that the 6% cream was simply too gentle for my skin. It didn't do a thing for me. The 12% and 20% creams I find I use more nowadays that my skin is a little dryer because the weather is cooler. However, the Smoothing Gel is the "powerhouse" of these glycolic acid products. During the initial trial period, Ms. Strickland suggests that the smoothing gel be used only once a day for a month. There is good reason for this. It can and will cause irritation and the skin must adjust to it. I could not recommend this product to any one with sensitive skin or to anyone with a low "pain" tolerance because it "stings/burns". However, once my skin adjusted to this product, I found that it was not only a FABULOUS exfoliant, but also a fantastic oil control lotion and wrinkle/line eraser. My crow's feet have completely disappeared and my skin, even in the summer, did not produce nearly the amount of oil it usually does. I have found, now in the fall, that it is a little too aggressive and have started using the creams on my face instead of the gel.
Gelloid Moisturizer (4oz for $40)
During the summer months, I found this moisturizer to be too rich for my skin. It kind of "lays on top" and did not absorb well. However, I found it was a great moisturizing mask after using the extra strength Miracle Zit over night and the At Home Peel. Now I substitute it for the reformulated hydrating emulsion with extra moisture.
Old Lady Cream (2oz for $40)
Unlike Heather, I liked the Old Lady Cream, but I am a number of years older than she. I found it to be an asset as a "sealant" in both summer and fall against the elements and pollution. My makeup application "flowed" better when I used it, especially during the initial trial period, when my skin was a little rough. I don't like it much as an eye cream though (it's not powerful enough), but it is very soothing on the face and moisturizing without being greasy.
10% Miracle Zit and Extra Strength %10 Miracle Zit with Sulfur (4 oz for $23)
I loved both of these products, although I found the extra strength to be the better product for me. While using these products I have found that I have had absolutely no acne break outs, even during my "hormonal" time of the month. These are aggressive products, though. This product cannot be used around the eyes, and can "travel" if applied over wet Smoothing Gel. I found that it was best to allow the Smoothing Gel to dry before applying the Miracle Zit. It "congeals" less when applied this way and does not "travel" up near the eyes. It will cause a great deal of SWELLING if gotten around the eyes, so be careful. Also, it will "bleach" out dyes on clothes, pillowcases, sheets, etc. so allow the product to dry thoroughly before retiring for the evening. If you have sensitive skin and are acne prone, you may prefer the gentler versions of these products.
I actually saw improvement in my skin in a 24-hour period. Because I was so impressed, I bought two others that Ms. Strickland offers.
Ooey-Gooey Exfoliating Mask at 15% (4oz for $60)
This was the only Sage product that I did not like. Although I found it to be a quick, convenient treatment for my skin, I did not think much of the exfoliating qualities of the product. I don't think that it really stays on the face long enough - it dries in about 10 minutes, which doesn't do much for my face. My skin was soft, but I found that the Biological Clay Mask actually did a better job for me and it is cheaper. The Ooey-Gooey Mask does have a very strong "acid-y" smell, and, in my opinion, doesn't exfoliate enough to warrant the price tag. I sent this product back and Ms. Strickland was nice enough to give me "credit" toward anther purchase, even though the product was used.
At Home Peel (2oz for $70)
This is another "powerhouse" product, which is fabulous, but I cannot recommend for those with sensitive skin or those with a low pain tolerance. I was actually a little worried about using this product initially, sine so many products like this can cause uneven "lightening" of the skin tone of women of color. However, I did not find this to be the case with this product. It is a Very Aggressive Product. It definitely STINGS. However, if you can stand it for four minutes (it should not be used for longer than that), you will love the results. I have found that this product has helped me to remove almost all signs of sun damage on my cheekbones (driver's side UV damage) and my skin is like "porcelain" after using it. Although it may seem a little pricey, there are actually 40-50 treatments in this bottle, so it actually averages out to be fairly reasonable for what you are getting. I found that this product could be very drying, even on oily skin, if used too often, so I used it once every 7-10 days with lots of ice and Gelloid after the treatment. I would highly recommend it to anyone who can tolerate the "stinging" and can do with a little UV damage reversal.
Well, there you have it, my Sage experience. Overall, I think this is a fantastic skin care line that, although it is a little pricey, it definitely delivers what it promises. One final testimonial: one day, while using this product line, I was running late for class and was (gasp) "sans" makeup in the city. A man walked up to me and asked me if I had ever modeled before. Not wanting to get into a long discussion with a stranger, I said "No." He handed me his card and said, "Well, if you are ever interested, give me a call." It turns out that he was a VP for a very reputable Modeling/Talent firm in New York. I'm not interested in modeling anymore, since my life has moved on to other things, but thanks to Sage, it's nice to know that maybe I could have modeled again and my skin wouldn't have played up on me. My "hats off" to Ms. Strickland, her company and her products - I'm a convert. Does this mean I won't be trying other skin care lines? Absolutely not! You'll be hearing from me again as I'll be back with more reviews :).
You can find Sage Skin Care at http://zerozits.com.
review: 10/99