A special report from Renee Rouleau of Renee Rouleau Skin Care
There are so many misconceptions floating around out there, and with the consumer demanding more knowledge, I’m here to share what I know to be true, in my 15 years of skin care experience.
1) If you have acne-prone skin, you should use products designed for acne.
A skin care line geared towards acne is designed to fight bacteria and dry out breakouts. For someone whose skin is covered in severe acne (like a teenager) this is appropriate. But for most people who get some breakout (but not on the majority of their face), acne products can make it worse. These products are extremely drying, and although they will help dry up and heal the individual breakouts, they will over-dry other non-broken out areas resulting in dead skin cell buildup. The cell buildup will then act as a barrier to trap oil under the skin causing more clogged pores and breakouts. So your effort to clear up your skin will actually cause you to break out more! The three most important elements for controlling clogged pores and breakouts are: exfoliation (this will keep off dry skin cells to untrap clogged pores and also help fade those red, post-breakout marks), disinfecting (it is important to eliminate bacteria to help prevent the spread of breakout as well as drying up infection), and hydration (water-based moisture to keep cells healthy to discourage dry skin cell buildup). For exfoliation, try our Glycolic Serum 15%, 17% or 20% (used one week on, one week off) along with our Mint Buffing Beads. For disinfecting the skin, try our Blemish Control Cleanser and Tea Tree Blemish Cream. For hydration, try our Hamamelis Water, Skin Drink and Sheer Moisture. For spot treatments, try our Anti-Cyst Treatment and Drying Lotion.
2) The skin should feel squeaky clean after you wash. That's when you know it has been effectively cleaned.
Your floors should be squeaky clean, not your skin! If the skin feels tight after washing, it is a sign that the skin has been stripped of all its water, therefore causing surface dead skin cell build up. Then you have to rush and put your moisturizer on to put back the moisture that you just took out-which makes absolutely no sense! Bar soaps (even if they say that they are moisturizing), cleansers that bubble up and lather like a shampoo, and anything that leaves your skin feeling tight is an absolute no-no! The most important part of your entire routine is what you wash with. It makes or breaks the rest of your routine. Try our Gentle Gel Cleanser or our Purifying Face Wash for a thorough and comfortable clean.
3) All oils are bad for the skin.
When a consumer picks up a cream and sees an ingredient with the word "oil" in it, if their skin is already prone to oil, they will not use it. We often hear, "I can only use oil-free products." What you first need to understand is that virtually all creams and lotions use a form of oil or emollient to make the product slip across the skin. But not all oils are comedogenic and will be pore-clogging. The one type of oil we don’t use is Mineral Oil, as we feel that it clogs the pores and suffocates the skin. The emollients we avoid are Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate and Petrolatum. We find these to be very pore clogging, but because they don’t have the word "oil" in their name, the consumer wouldn't know that these were pore-clogging ingredients. The "safe" oils are Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Safflower Oil, Jojoba Oil, Soybean Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil and Macadamia Nut Oil.
4) An SPF 30 offers twice as much protection as an SPF 15.
An SPF 30 actually offers less than 4% more protection than an SPF 15. The key to good sun protection is to apply it generously. The key to getting the best protection is to reapply often and avoid the sun during peak hours.
5) It is normal to break out after a facial.
We've had clients through the years who are skeptical about getting facials because they have had them at other places where they have broken out after. If you are getting a professional facial appropriate for your skin type, a facial should never encourage breakouts. (The Renee Rouleau facials don’t cause breakouts!)
6) Chocolate and greasy foods will make your skin break out.
Many people have heard this from time to time, but there is no evidence that indicates that they increase breakouts. They may not be healthy food choices, but they shouldn't cause breakout. The foods that most often are linked to breakouts are dairy (when the breakouts are in the chin and jaw line area) and citrus foods (when the breakouts are in the cheek area).
7) Skin aging cannot be slowed down. It's all based on genetics.
Free radicals are now believed by most medical researchers to be the bottom line of disease and aging, contributing not only to wrinkles, but to: acne, sensitivity, age spots, dryness, loss of skin elasticity and skin cancer. By reducing the amount of free radicals that your body creates (reducing sun exposure, stress and getting more rest), and incorporating the daily use of sunscreen, topical antioxidants and a high antioxidant diet, you can control how fast your skin ages to a greater degree . Use 3-4 drops of our Vitamin C & E Complex under our Daily Protection SPF 30 to keep your skin protected.
8) The sun isn't as strong in the winter, therefore sunscreens aren't necessary during that time of year.
The UVB rays (the ones that cause your skin to burn) aren't as strong in the winter months, therefore your skin is at less risk for a sunburn, however, UVA rays (the ones that cause skin aging and skin cancer) are approximately the same strength year round. Our Daily Protection SPF 30 is a must every day-365 days a year.
9) Avobenzone (Parsol 1789) is the best UVA sunscreen.
Researchers now show that Parsol 1789 (a common ingredient used in sunscreens) is one of the most irritating ingredients used in beauty products. Continued use of products that encourage visible or invisible irritation actually increases free radical production which promotes skin aging. We feel that the more effective and less irritating UVA sunscreen is Zinc Oxide. Read #14.
10) Suntan beds are safer than the sun.
They expose your skin to more concentrated doses of aging UVA rays (the cancer causing and skin aging rays) than you'll get in direct sunlight. If you are concerned about anti-aging for the skin, it is advised to avoid sun tanning beds.
11) I have an SPF in my foundation makeup; I don't need to wear sunscreen.
If you apply a regular cream to the face and then apply a foundation with an SPF, the sunscreen in the makeup has a difficult time penetrating through your day cream to effectively coat and protect the skin. It is best to use a moisturizer with a sunscreen directly on the skin first to adequately deliver the specified SPF. (As long as you apply it generously.)
12) The richer the eye cream, the better it is for wrinkles.
Most eye creams that are rich and greasy typically contain Mineral Oil or Petrolatum. These ingredients have a hard time getting absorbed, so they sit on the surface and suffocate the skin and can travel into the eyes while you're sleeping causing excessive puffiness in the morning. Your skin acts as a sponge - it absorbs what it needs and the rest just sits on the top. Eye creams should absorb, yet still leave the skin feeling moist and supple. Try Renee Rouleau Eye Moist or our new Vitamin C Eye Serum.
13) Toners are not necessary.
"I don't like to use toners because they dry out my skin." We hear this comment a lot and it's because most toners out on the market contain SD Alcohol 40, which is extremely drying to the skin and will encourage dry skin cell build up. But toners that are alcohol-free (like all of the Renee Rouleau toners) will not strip the skin and are a crucial step in a good skin care regimen. They remove cleanser residue, chlorine found in tap water and when left damp on the skin, your moisturizer will seal in the water and the active ingredient. The result is healthier and more hydrated skin.
14) I can't wear sunscreen. They break me out and clog my pores.
The newer sunscreens out on the market contain Z-cote (transparent Zinc Oxide) which is naturally antibacterial and can actually help with breakout. They also feel extremely lightweight and greaseless on the skin. Our Daily Protection SPF 30 is our #1 best selling product because it doesn't encourage breakouts, can actually help reduce breakouts, absorbs easily and dries to a matte finish.
15) My Vitamin C product makes my skin sting after I put it on. It must be working.
Most Vitamin C products out on the market use the acid forms of the Vitamin (like Ascorbic Acid). These are in fact, acids, which is why you can feel a stinging sensation on the skin. The new research on skin aging indicates that daily use of skin irritating acids actually encourage free radical formation, which counteracts the reason why you're using Vitamin C in the first place! Plus, the problem with these acid types of Vitamin C is that they are highly unstable and break down every time you open the bottle and oxygen gets to the product. If your Vitamin C starts to turn brown half way through the bottle, that's a sign that it is oxidizing and is losing its effectiveness. (Think of an apple that turns brown 20 minutes after taking a bite.) At Renee Rouleau, we use Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, which is believed to be one of the most beneficial type of Vitamin C because it doesn't cause skin irritation and won't lose its ability to fight free radicals. Our Vitamin C & E Complex is a must!
16) Oily skins don't need moisturizer.
Wrong. Oily skins don't need heavy and greasy oil-based moisturizers (you've already got enough oil!) But water-based moisturizers are necessary to keep the skin cells healthy and to discourage dead skin cell buildup. Try Renee Rouleau Sheer Moisture. It gives the skin the water it needs, without any oil.
17) You can shrink your pores.
Many products claim to shrink your pores, but there really is not way to do this. Your pores get filled up with oil which stretches the opening of the pores. You can effectively reduce the appearance of the pores by getting them cleaned out with regular facials, and increase your exfoliation to minimize their appearance.
18) The purpose of steaming your skin is to open your pores.
When you steam your skin at home, or have it steamed in a professional facial, many people think it's because the pores open up and you can get them cleaned out easier. Pores aren't like doors, they don't open and close. Steam is beneficial in two ways. The heat that the steam produces will raise the temperature of the skin, therefore softening the hardened oil in the pore for easier extraction and deep pore cleansing. It is also excellent for hydrating the skin as long as you seal in the moisture with a cream afterwards without letting the moisture evaporate. And a cold splash after washing your face doesn't close your pores!
19) Moisturizing soaps are won't dry out your skin.
The binders that hold a bar of soap together are in an alkaline base (high pH balance) which will strip all the water and natural moisture out of the skin, causing the surface of the skin to dehydrate. Your skin cells need to stay moist in order to be healthy, and without water, acne conditions, sensitivity and dry skins will be aggravated. "Moisturizing" bar soaps, or any kind of bar soap (even if it is an expensive one) will strip and dehydrate the skin. Our Gentle Gel Cleanser is an excellent soap substitute.
20) Vitamin E oil (from the inside of the capsule) is beneficial to the skin.
We've always heard that it is healing and very moisturizing, but when used on the face in doses over 5%, it can act as a skin irritant and cause white bumps on the skin.
21) Preservatives in skin care products are harmful to the skin.
We'll hear this one from time to time, and we stand firm that a proper preservative system is important for product performance. Preservatives work to ensure product stability (to prevent separation of ingredients), antimicrobial (to prevent mold and bacteria- who wants to keep your products in the refrigerator and remove them with a sanitized spatula?) and they give the product a 1-2 year shelf life. Without a good preservative system, it can impair the performance and safety of the product.
22) Clay masks draw blackheads and impurities out of the skin.
Standard clay masks are beneficial for absorbing oil and can dry up infected breakouts, but they cannot draw blackheads out of the skin. The only way blackheads can be removed is to have a professional facial to manually extract them out of the skin. Masks are actually designed to "push" serums into the skin, so we recommend a few drops of our Skin Drink or our Swiss Collagen Complex underneath to enhance the performance of the mask. Also, since clay masks tend to be too dehydrating for many skin types, we suggest our Vitamin C Mask, as this is formulated with non-drying clays.
23) Chemical-free sunscreens are better.
All sunscreens contain chemical, some like octyl methoxycinnimate (octinoxat), an organic sunscreen that chemically lowers UV energy levels and releases that energy as heat. Others use the inorganic mineral particulates, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, work by partially blocking UV radiation, then scattering, or reflecting energy rays. Since they do not employ a chemical process, products that only use these "physical blockers" are labeled "chemical-free". We find that to adequately get the best sun protection, both chemical and non-chemical sunscreens work best. As for skin sensitivity, some people are prone to sensitivity from chemical-only sunscreens, but when combined with a non-chemical mineral particulate, the chance of sensitivity decreases since less of the chemical sunscreen is being used.
24) All alcohols are drying.
A consumer will look at the ingredient listing and see the word "alcohol" and assume that the product will be drying. But the truth is, alcohols have many different uses. Did you know that Vitamins A and E are alcohols? Alcohols can be humectants, solvents, emulsifiers, surfactants, and antioxidants. Examples of commonly used alcohols are: Propylene Glycol (a humectant that binds moisture), Tocopherol (Vitamin E/ free radical fighting antioxidant), Cetyl Alcohol (product thickener), SD Alcohol 40 (a solvent and evaporative alcohol), and Stearyl Alcohol (emollient). It's the evaporative alcohol, like SD Alcohol that is commonly used in toners that are extremely drying to the skin. But the rest, are beneficial!
25) Expensive products must mean they are better.
The three main costs that are factored into the price of a product are the ingredients, marketing and packaging. The cost of the ingredients to make the product, the cost of the advertising, marketing and promotional material (you pay for the models salary in those advertisements to sell the product) and the cost of the fancy packaging to attract the customer to buy it. At Renee Rouleau, you won't find fancy gold caps and boxes that are just thrown a way-we put our money into what's inside the bottle-quality ingredients with simple packaging. It's that simple!
26) You must use the same line of products in order for them to work. Products work synergistically.
You can mix and match with any brand. Each product works independently to give your skin the specified result.
27) A skin bleaching product is the most beneficial way to lighten pigmentation.
Most bleaching products contain Hydroquinone, an ingredient used to fade and lighten pigmented cells. We had sold a product like this for a few years without much success with its result. We have found that the antioxidant ingredient, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is far more effective for fading and lightening brown spots due to its melanin suppressing properties. We have had amazing results with our Vitamin C & E Complex when used daily under UVA/UVB protecting sunscreen!
28) I don't need to wear a sunscreen. I don't go out in the sun anymore.
Research indicates that 78% of all sun damage incurred in lifetime is from incidental exposure. It's all those times when you don't think that you're getting sun because you aren't out their long enough to actually get a tan! (The drive in the car, the walk to the mailbox…) Just because you don't sunbathe doesn't mean you're not getting the UV damage. Wear a sunscreen 365 days a year and your skin will thank you for years to come!
29) An oil-free product will not cause the skin to break out.
An oil-free product means that it does not contain any ingredients with the word oil in it. But back in #3, I mentioned that there are some ingredients that can still be comedogenic despite the fact that they don't have the word "oil" in their name. Read your labels.
30) Pigmentation comes only from sun exposure.
The new research shows that pigmentation (brown spots) comes not only from accumulative sun exposure, but also from heat and hormones! Pregnancy, menopause, birth control pills and the heat from hot summers (despite having adequate sun protection on the skin) can all increase melanin activity. By increasing your exfoliation, using topical antioxidants and regular sue of sunscreen will help discourage melanin formation.
31) Natural ingredients are better for the skin.
Every ingredient in the product is a chemical, including water, plant extracts and "natural ingredients". There is no legal definition for this term when applied to cosmetics, therefore the true meaning of natural is the matter of interpretation. Just because the ingredient is derived directly from natural sources (plant, animal or mineral), doesn't mean it is safer or better for the skin. It is well accepted by dermatologists that natural ingredients are more likely than synthetic to cause allergic reactions on the skin.
32) It’s best to let your skin breathe at night by avoiding the use of night cream.
The latest research indicates that the skin repairs itself most effectively at night, between 10pm and 11pm, indicating the need for night cream application before midnight. Washing off the day's dirt and grime, and nourishing it with good moisture and nutrients will give your skin a chance to renew while you sleep. Especially in the winter when the heat is blowing on your skin at night, your skin must have protection from a cream to keep your skin hydrated. As long as your night cream is free of Mineral Oil and Petrolatum, it will not suffocate the skin and clog the pores.
33) Cream-based cleansers are only for dry skins.
The purpose of a milk, cream or lotion-type cleanser is that the emollients or oils work to dissolve and melt makeup out of the pores, without drying out the skin. There are many lightweight non pore-clogging formulas that won't leave the skin feeling slick and greasy. The best way to remove makeup is: massage cleanser on dry skin first (if the skin is wet, it dilutes the cleanser and will not effectively attract the Cream-based cleansers will not make your skin feel squeaky clean (read below), but they will properly remove face makeup. Choose a lotion-based cleanser appropriate for your skin type and it will work beautifully.
34) If you have post-breakout scars, you should use calming and soothing products to reduce the redness.
Many people will use "calming" products to soothe the redness, but this is a form of scar tissue and it can only heal with time and increased exfoliation. (Calming products work for skins that are over-circulated and flush easily, not post-breakout marks.) Our Glycolic Serum 15%, 17% or 20% used for one week on, one week off, along with our Mint Buffing Beads used 2-3 times a week, will encourage new skin cell growth and exfoliate off the damaged cells. But most importantly, don't pick. If you avoid picking at your skin and let the blemish heal naturally, you will dramatically decrease your post-breakout marks. Practice self control and you'll have more even- toned skin!
35) I have broken capillaries.
The term "broken" is very misleading. A broken capillary is caused when you get a bruise, where the capillaries actually break and get damaged. The tiny red lines that are commonly found on the corners of the nose or cheeks are considered permanently dilated capillaries. They are caused from repeated constricting and dilating and no longer have their ability to contract, and remain visibly enlarged. The common causes for dilated capillaries is genetics (think an Irish complexion), alcohol, hot showers, frequent nose blowing (allergies), spicy foods and sun exposure. Research indicates that Lemon Bioflavanoids, a form of Vitamin C, acts as a capillary strengthener to prevent the loss of elasticity. Try Renee Rouleau Bioflavanoid Toner.