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THE COSMETIC REPORT
April 2, 2001

We have so many new reviews in the works for the coming weeks! This week our focus is on Dr. N.V. Perricone's line of skincare created based on his theories about the benefits of anti-oxidants for aging skin. I have been wanting to try these products since they first came out, and I know many of you have been curious as well.

In upcoming reviews, here is a sneak peek at what we have for you: Aveeno's new soy-based skin care, Revlon's new cream eye shadow palette, Avon's improved Lighten Up Plus eye cream, Peter Thomas Roth, and so much more!

N.V. Perricone, M.D. Cosmeceuticals
After reading Dr. Perricone's book The Wrinkle Cure a few months ago, I was interested in his theories about aging, including using Vitamin C and something called Alpha Lipoic Acid (an antioxidant naturally present in our cells) to combat skin sagging, fine lines, wrinkles, sun damage and skin discolorations. While I was not up for the full program of diet and supplements that he proposes in his book, I figured trying the skin care would be a good start.

Following the "Consult the Doctor" recommendations for "scarring/uneven skin tone" under Dry to Normal Skin on the Perricone website (nvperriconemd.com), I selected Alpha Lipoic Acid Nutritive Cleanser, Alpha Lipoic Face Firming Activator, Vitamin C Ester Concentrated Restorative Cream and Face Finishing Moisturizer for my program. My main goal was to see the small acne scars and red discolorations from old breakouts on my cheeks and chin diminish. I used all these products for about a month but saw little improvement and even experienced some increased dryness especially around my nose and mouth. Here are specifics on each product I used.

Alpha Lipoic Acid Nutritive Cleanser ($27)
Barely half a pump of this almost-clear gel is all you need to clean your entire face, with plenty of suds to spare. The label claims Nutritive Cleanser can be used on all skin types, but for my normal-to-dry skin I did get a little flaky on the sides of my nose, and I was dried out around my mouth and on my chin, which for me almost always causes new pimples. If your skin is more "normal," you may like this gel. It removes makeup easily, rinses easily, and leaves your skin soft and fresh. It can be very foamy and airy, though (I almost inhaled the bubbles a few times), so to cut down on the bubbles and foam running down your arms, I suggest you splash your face with water, dry your hands well with a towel, then pump the gel into your dry hands and massage it onto your wet face.

Alpha Lipoic Face Firming Activator ($85)
This moisturizer is recommended for day use for normal to dry skin. It has 1% Alpha Lipoic Acid, 3% Glycolic Acid, and the package states it should be combined with sunscreen (why not just put some in?). In the almost 4 weeks that I've been using it, I honestly can't see any improvement in my skin. I saw no firming and no change in the scarring or redness on my skin, except for excessive dryness. I would not call this an emollient lotion, making it a strange choice for dry skin; even combined with the Face Finishing Moisturizer (see below) my skin did not seem well hydrated. Face Firming Activator tingles a bit when you apply it but that was the only effect I noticed. In my opinion, this lotion is not worth $85.

Vitamin C Ester Concentrated Restorative Cream ($80)
This moisturizer is recommended for night use for normal to dry skin. It has 15% Vitamin C Ester (an anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory), NTP Complex containing DMAE (for firming) and 3% Glycolic Acid. This is one of a few vitamin C products I've enjoyed using, simply because it is very gentle and does not sting at all; many vitamin C creams and serums that contain the more commonly used ascorbic acid can be irritating to sensitive skin. Aside from feeling comfortable on my skin, the only other effect I noticed was a slight brightening of my complexion, but it only lasted until the cream absorbed, and I've seen no change in the scarring or redness on my face. This is another cream I would not spend $80+ for, and thankfully I don't have to: Kiss My Face makes a great inexpensive alternative, their Organics Ester-C Serum for just $15!

Face Finishing Moisturizer ($45)
I used this cream after the treatment products both day and night. It contains Alpha Lipoic Acid and Vitamin C Ester and is a lightweight rose-scented cream. I found the claim "leaves the skin looking 'dewy' or 'luminous'... appropriate for all skin types, but recommended for normal/dry skin" to be a bit off-base. I ended up with a matte finish that seems more appropriate for combination or normal skin. My skin did not feel hydrated, so this extra step was useless for me.

While I enjoyed Dr. Perricone's book, The Wrinkle Cure, and think he makes some excellent points about the importance of anti-oxidants, his products did not live up to the expectations I had or the goals I have for my skin. Perhaps if I were looking for more firming and wrinkle reduction, I would be happier, but for my skin, this is not the right line. If you are curious about the products for yourself, you can find them at Sephora.com and nvperriconemd.com, as well as at selected Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue stores.


 

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