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THE COSMETIC REPORT
July 23, 2001

This week we've got an entire issue devoted to facial scrubs and exfoliating treatments. I've noticed a dramatic difference in my skin when I am diligent about exfoliating. I hope these reviews help you find something that works well for you.

DDF Multizyme Resurfacing Treatment Kit ($65)
First on my list is something over and above a basic scrub. If you have minor acne scars or discolorations, or if you just want to boost the clarity and healthy glow of your skin, this enzyme treatment kit is the way to go. Each box contains four individual treatments for use once a week for a month. Here's what you get:

• 2oz bottle of Marine Cleanser
• 4 individually measured cups of enzyme powder
• 2oz bottle of Activator Gel
• 1 Fan Brush for application
• 4 packets of Stress Relief Eye Pads (look like slices of cucumber)
• 4 packets of AHA Cleansing Pads
• 1oz bottle of Ultra-Lite Oil Free Moisturizing Dew

First you wash with the cleanser, which is very minty and refreshing (may irritate some sensitive skins, but I had no problem; just don't get it near your eyes) thanks to peppermint, lavender, rosemary, cypress and clay sage essential oils.

Next, you make the mask using the enclosed measuring spoon by adding a measured amount of pineapple enzyme activator gel to the premeasured enzyme powder (in its own cup), and mix to make a paste. Using the fan brush, you paint the mask paste on your face, place the cucumber eye pads over your eyes, and go relax until it dries. After it's all "cooked" I like to use a wet washcloth to help remove it, rather than just splashing water on my face to try to rinse it off, which can take forever. The washcloth also adds an extra level of exfoliation.

When all the mask is removed, you tear open one of the AHA pad packets and swipe it on your face; for someone with dry or sensitive skin, I'd skip this step or maybe try the pad on one little area to see if it irritates. The pad is soaked in a glycolic acid, witch hazel, SD alcohol, vitamin C, and lactic acid solution and can be pretty strong after all the other exfoliating. The first time I did the whole kit I had no problem, but the second time I did get a little dry around my mouth and nose.

The final step is a layer of the Ultra-Lite Moisturizing Dew, a very lightweight, cool cream-gel hydrator perfect for combination or slightly oily skin types. It has goodies like aloe vera gel, squalene, glycerin, beeswax, vitamin C, grapeseed extract, vitamin E, vitamin A and allantoin to protect and soothe without being greasy or heavy.

I found the whole experience surprisingly relaxing. I never realized that with most masks, when it says to let it dry for 10-15 minutes, I always busily go off to do something else while it dries, rather than relaxing and making it a real at-home spa experience. Because this kit has the premoistened eye pads, you pretty much have to go put your feet up somewhere and close your eyes for 15 minutes - and what a relaxing 15 minutes that can be!

I feel like I've had a real spa experience when I use this kit, and my skin positively glows, so I definitely recommend it. I think regular use of this kit, like one every few months or so, would be a great alternative to a spa facial (and this is safe for acne prone skin, unlike some popular spa brands). You can find out more at Sephora.com.

BeneFit Pineapple Facial Polish ($26 for 5.5oz tube)
This is a brand new addition to BeneFit's existing line of exfoliating treatments, including Honey Snap Out of It Scrub and Seven % AHA cream. This one is targeted at skin that's on the oily side, combining pineapple and kiwi extracts with small jojoba beads, so you get the physical scrubbing of the beads and the astringent, pore-tightening benefits of pineapple - plus an amazing scent straight from the tropics! While the beads are small enough to be gentle for frequent use, the fruit extracts can be mildly irritating, so sensitive skins take care. I've found that if I use a small amount of scrub (versus being overly generous), my skin doesn't react; if I use too much, I do experience some stinging.

Pineapple Facial Polish is available now at BeneFit counters and online at BeneFitCosmetics.com (and hopefully coming soon to Sephora.com).

Caudalie Grape-Seed Buffing Cream ($34 for 1.6oz tube)
I've gotten quite a few requests for reviews of this brand, so I decided to start with something simple like this scrub and go from there. Caudalie's distinction is their inclusion of grape seed polyphenols (an anti-oxidant) in all their products. I'm not sure how much it can do in a wash-away scrub like this, but I like it just the same. The combination of a creamy, moisturizing base made with honey and small, gentle jojoba beads makes this a nice choice for dry or sensitive skin. I like to use more than the hazelnut-size portion the label recommends, so it's a bit expensive for such a small tube that you could go through fairly quickly; if it were closer to $20-25 I might recommend it more highly.

Caudalie products are available at Sephora.com, Sephora stores or at Caudalie.com.

DDF Face & Body Polish ($22 for 8.45oz)
DDF is another brand I get asked about all the time. This scrub actually comes in several different scents - herbal, coconut, bergamot, almond, strawberry almond and "plain" - so you choose the one that most appeals to you. I went for the herbal and found it to be a nice mix of almond meal and polyethylene granules, so it's somewhere between gentle and vigorous. You need a squirt about the size of a quarter to scrub your whole face, so the generous 8.45 ounce bottle should last quite a while even with regular use (I recommend 2-3 times a week for most skin types).

DDF (Doctor's Dermatologic Formula) products are available at Sephora.com, Sephora stores, and DDFskin.com.

Desert Essence Gentle Stimulating Facial Scrub ($3.99 for 4oz jar)
If you are looking for a bargain scrub and you don't mind non-spherical scrub grains, this is a nice choice. Rather than jojoba or polyethylene beads, this scrub gets its power from jojoba meal, clay, honey, almond meal, kelp and rye flour, plus soothing aloe extract and cooling cucumber extract (also gives it a nice smell). It's gentle enough to use a few times a week (or even daily if you work up to it and are very gentle), and I like that it's natural and cruelty-free. You can find Desert Essence products at a pharmacy or natural food store near you.


 

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