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THE COSMETIC REPORT
September 25, 1998

I get dozens of questions every week from readers like you asking about foundation - what are the best brands, colors, formulas for every skin type and beauty concern you can think of. I've tried more brands than I can count, and I know there are even more out there that deserve a look. Over the next few weeks, I plan to bring you a review or two every issue of a new or especially worthwhile foundation (and hopefully even some to avoid).

This week's report is chock full of foundation reviews, thanks to new products from Garden Botanika and the newest line from Shiseido, 5S.

Shiseido's newest line, 5S, launched a few months ago at their flagship store in New York City. 5S is a complete skincare and makeup line that represents the five "senses" of well-being as they correspond to the moods of your body and mind, using therapeutic colors, scents, herbs, and flower extracts. The 5S philosophy about beauty is "Have fun", so their color products are simply packaged and designed to use just about anywhere on the face. Since I don't live in NYC and couldn't browse the store shelves, I picked a few products in a few of the different "senses" to get a feel for how the line works.

All the five basic skincare products (cleanser, solution, total wash, soap bubble, and powder) come in each of the five "senses", but it gets a little complicated from there. Each of the five senses is broken down into two versions, one for mind and one for body, for a total of ten options. If you choose "purifying" from the main five senses, you then choose again between "refreshing" (for the mind) and "equalizing" (for the body) to get the product you want. Thankfully, 5S does a great job of explaining each sense and approach so you get just the experience you are looking for; check out the interactive sensory game on the 5S website that helps you get in touch with your emotional or physical states (located under "own your senses").

Foam Cleanser in "cool" ($10)
All the foaming cleansers are basically the same except for the fragrance, and they are all similar to Shiseido's cleansers from their regular line. As someone who has shunned foaming cleansers for years because they were too drying, I am becoming a believer with several like this one that have evolved to care for the skin without stripping it. The 5S cleanser removes makeup and the daily grime effectively without drying the skin - yippee!

Basic Solution in "toning", "cool", "equalizing", and "rehydrate" ($5 for 50ml (1.6oz), $17 for 200ml)
These are not toners, not fresheners, and not exactly moisturizers, either. 5S calls the Basic Solution a "gel-type treatment lotion", but I call them soothing and refreshing. Toning is an orange gel with fennel extract that has a slightly tightening, astringent property; Cool is an aqua blue gel with a small amount camphor and menthol that is appropriately cooling without being too tingly; Equalizing is a clear gel that balances and soothes when your skin feels sensitive; and Rehydrate is a light pink gel lotion from the "nurturing" sense designed to lightly moisturize the skin. I liked Equalizing and Rehydrate the best.

Total Wash in "empowering" ($10)
I love body washes in the shower instead of bar soap, and this is a great one. You only need a squirt or two on a puff or sponge for long lasting lather, and the fragrances are just heavenly. The one I chose has peppermint and rosemary, guaranteed to wake you up!

Skin Smoother ($12)
5S also addresses specific skin issues like breakouts and dehydrated skin with a collection of "reinforcements", including Wrinkle Cream, Blemish Treatment, Eye Gel, and more. This gel scrub with natural mineral salts is great if you like to use a scrub everyday but worry about using something too harsh. The mineral salts dissolve as you massage and leave the skin feeling smooth and fresh.

Base Color foundation with SPF12 ($15)
Since I couldn't see the colors in person, choosing the right shade was a little difficult, but I do like the consistency and finish of this oil-free cream-gel foundation. Depending on your skin type, this foundation will wear differently - if you have normal or slightly oily skin, it will appear dewy, whereas if you are dry, the look will be more demi-matte unless you apply a fair amount of moisturizer beforehand. The cream-gel texture spreads very easily, delivers sheer coverage, and seems to bond with the skin for a no- makeup look and feel.

Stick Color ($12), Powder Color ($10), and Pencil Color ($9)
Here is where you really get to have some fun! Now the 5S stands for five shades of color: light, subtle, neutral, deep, and vivid. Each product comes in a variety of colors in each range of shades, meaning you could have a stick color in a concealer shade (from the "neutral" range) as well as a stick color in a vibrant lip gloss (from the "vivid" range). The powders come in 36 colors and can be used on eyes and cheeks as well as all over the face (using a flesh shade from the "neutral" range). The pencils come 30 shades, and various sizes, and can be used on eyes, lips, as concealer, whatever - all depending on what shade you choose. I loved playing with all the colors I got, and the mix and match products are perfect for simplifying your makeup routine.

For more information about the 5S philosophy, product line, and contact details for their only location at 98 Prince Street in New York's SoHo district, visit their website at http://www.five-s.com.

I was never that pleased with the liquid foundations from Garden Botanika, but now I've found two products from them that I can be excited about. The new Foundation Stick ($15) is a great product for those of us who like a bit more coverage, or who need a creamier formula for dry skin. It comes in 5 colors (porcelain, linen, macadamia, sand, and honey), has medium coverage, is totally portable, and can be used as a concealer or all over makeup. Now that autumn is officially here, a creamy stick foundation like this will really come in handy as everyone's skin gets a bit drier. Compared to some other stick foundation brands, the texture is most similar to Bobbi Brown Foundation Stick, very slightly drier than Estee Lauder Minute Makeup, and creamier than Prescriptives Exact Matchstick.

If you prefer a lighter feel and less coverage from your makeup, Garden Botanika's new Tinted Moisturizer ($8.50) is another great new product. The lightweight formula comes in 4 colors (porcelain, macadamia, sand, and honey) and has SPF 8 sun protection. I would like to see more colors in the future, but if you can find one that works for you (I wear "macadamia"), this is a nice product for the woman on the go, or for a more minimal makeup look on the weekend.

What could be more exciting than the recent launch of our newest site, Ask The Makeup Diva? How about our new Cosmetic Connection URL at http://www.cosmeticconnection.com! Cosmetic Connection is now easier than ever to find on the web. Come see us today at our new home.

Ask The Makeup Diva is going strong and getting a ton of great questions. Have you submitted your best beauty question? Well, get on it, girl! Ask The Makeup Diva, located at http://www.makeupdiva.com, is a new generation in advice columns, bringing you answers to your makeup and skin care questions every week. You can even get the Ask The Makeup Diva column in your email box for free! Drop by today.


 

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