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APRIL 97: MAKEUP 101: FOUNDATION AND POWDER
For most of us, getting started with makeup is a real challenge. What colors should I choose? How do I know what looks good on me? Then, as if it wasn't complicated enough already, how do you know how to put it all on?

I'm here to get you on the road to understanding makeup. Welcome to Makeup 101, your personal makeup application lesson! This month, learn how to choose the right foundation for your skin, and how to best apply it.

With so many different brands and formulas out there, choosing a foundation that's right for you can feel like a losing battle. To find the right formula, and the right color, you need to know your skin. Are you oily? Dry? Only oily in spots? Sensitive? Normal? Knowing your skin type helps eliminate foundation formulas that aren't designed for your skin type. For instance, if you have very dry skin that has flaky patches, a powder foundation will only make you feel drier, and it will accentuate any dry, flaky skin on your face. A liquid foundation with emollient ingredients like plant oils is a better choice for dry skin.

Here's a handy guide to get you started.

  • If your skin is Dry, your best bet is a Liquid or Cream foundation with emollient ingredients like plant oils and moisturizers, like MAC Satin Finish, Bobbi Brown Moisturizing, Clinique Soft Finish, or Estee Lauder Futurist.

  • If your skin is Oily, your best bet is an Oil-free Liquid foundation with a Matte finish, like FACE Stockholm Matte Foundation, Lancome MaquiControle, Prescriptives Exact Color 100% Oil-free, or Revlon ColorStay.

  • If your skin is Normal-to-Dry, your best bet is either a Liquid or a Cream-to-Powder foundation that has a silky feel, like Revlon One Step Compact Makeup, Clinique City Base, Maybelline Great Wear liquid, or Trish McEvoy creme powder.

  • If your skin is Normal-to-Oily, your best bet is an Oil-free Liquid, Cream-to-Powder, or Powder foundation, like MAC Studio Fix powder, FACE Stockholm Matte liquid, Prescriptives Instant Face powder, Aveda Dual Performance Creme Powder, or Prescriptives Virtual Skin liquid.

  • If your skin is Combination (normal or dry on your cheeks and jawline with oiliness in the T-zone), your best bet is a Liquid, Cream-to-Powder, or Powder foundation that helps balance your face, like Revlon One Step Compact Makeup, Max Factor Balancing Act liquid, or Prescriptives Virtual Skin liquid.

    Now that you've identified what you need, how do you put it on so your skin can look its best? First, start with the right tools:

  • Disposable synthetic cosmetic sponges, either triangle wedges or flat rounds
  • Cotton swabs
  • 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch wide synthetic bristle makeup brush (can be found at any art supply store)
  • Large powder brush (cheap or expensive - it doesn't matter) for loose powder or sheer application of powder foundation
  • MOST IMPORTANT: very clean hands!
  • You are now ready to apply your foundation. If you are using a liquid, there are a number of different techniques to actually get the foundation on your face, but I like this one because it's easy, you don't use too much foundation, and it's sanitary.

    Take one of your cotton swabs, dip the end into the bottle once, remove it from the bottle and let the excess drain off, then use the swab like a crayon to draw a thin line of foundation across each cheek (like a zigzag), across your forehead, down the center of your nose, and across your chin. Now, take one of the sponges and smooth each line in downward strokes to blend. Use a gentle touch so you are blending, not rubbing it off.

    If you come to a spot on your face that requires more attention, like a dark spot or blemish, use one of the makeup brushes to apply a very thin layer of foundation over the spot, then blend very gently with a clean finger or the sponge. You can also use a creamy concealer on the spot in the same way, using a brush and blending.

    After you've covered everything you need to, follow up with a light dusting of loose powder to set your foundation. Whether you use a puff, a brush, or a sponge, make sure you dust off any excess so your skin looks smooth, not chalky.

    If you've chosen a cream-to-powder or powder foundation, simply use the enclosed puff or sponge to apply. Swipe the sponge or puff across the foundation, and gently smooth on your face in downward strokes. Cover your face with one even layer, then add another layer if you need more coverage.

    You're done! Remember, always start with less foundation than you think you need. Adding more if you need to is much easier than trying to remove too much.


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