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THE COSMETIC REPORT
September 15, 2003

This week I am excited to bring you a new report from our Panelist Gigi. She's been hard at work on this great piece on picking out the right foundation for your skin. If you have ever felt confused about foundation, this report is for you!

Gigi is a 43-year-old teacher from Pittsburgh, PA. As a German, Slovak, and Irish "hybrid," she has extremely fair and combination skin (still quite prone to monthly breakouts!), true auburn hair, and hazel eyes. Gigi has done some informal modeling and has taken modeling courses, including skin care and professional training in makeup application. She attributes her "addiction" to color from her very early love of art and painting. Despite the plethora of skin care items she owns, she's now becoming serious about preventing signs of aging. What interests her most is preserving her "young" skin and finding products which stay put!

GETTING BACK TO BASE-IC'S
Choose and Use Foundation with Ease - Part I
Perhaps you've never tried this cosmetic because you're among the small majority of women blessed with near-perfect skin. Maybe you have a hectic schedule and can't be bothered to use more than a little lipstick, mascara, and blush. If you're overwhelmed by the majority of new foundations available and doubt your ability to work with them, join the crowd. Since the importance and benefits of wearing base cannot be underestimated, the following guide will help you look your best with a minimum of time and angst. Key elements to be considered are: discovering your individual skin type and products to address its needs; selecting the color which most closely mimics your own; and employing professional application techniques.

An artist prepares her canvas with primer before painting to smooth the surface, correct imperfections, and extend the color's wear. Foundation functions in much the same way - it evens out skin tone, covers flaws, and increases cosmetics' endurance. Products currently available may also moisturize, combat breakouts, provide much-needed protection from the sun, temporarily firm sagging skin, and add a luminous glow. The following is a guide to determining your particular skin category.

Spending Too Much Time on Touch-Ups?
If you battle occasional or frequent acne, find yourself concealing unattractive, shiny breakthroughs before lunch, have enlarged, clogged pores, and/or are frustrated that makeup slips off shortly after it's applied, you're most likely dealing with normal-to-oily or oily skin, depending on the severity of the symptoms. Thus, select an oil-free liquid, powder, or creme-to-powder product. If you have resultant scarring from acne, look for a matte, long-lasting base, but be sure to read labels well, avoiding additives like lanolin which aggravate this condition (a comprehensive list of problem-causing ingredients is found on this site).

A great item is MAC Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation ($23). This combination of base and powder leaves a velvety matte finish, allowing you to control the coverage by using a sponge (for maximum camouflage power) or a brush for a lighter touch. Prefer a liquid? Try MAC Select SPF 15 Foundation, a water-based fluid ($22, both at gloss.com or maccosmetics.com).

Body & Soul Two-in-One-Face-Powder ($35 at Sephora stores or online at Sephora.com) can be applied wet or dry for a streak-free finish, effective for keeping shine at bay. A less costly alternative is Cover Girl Clean Makeup. It's been a top seller for many years, with good reason. It controls oil while giving medium coverage at an affordable price (about $6, available locally at most drug/discount stores). If you don't care for the original, slightly medicinal scent, opt for the fragrance-free version. Neutrogena Skin Clearing Oil-Free Compact Foundation controls shine with lightweight coverage (around $10 in drug/discount stores or online at drugstore.com). The salicylic acid is the same found in acne medications, so this is not a product for sensitive complexions. A word of advice: many national drug and discount stores permit consumers to return makeup after opening, as it's nearly impossible to find the right shade when you can't test the colors, so keep your receipt in case you need to exchange.

"Help! I Feel Like I've Been 'Shrink-Wrapped'!"
As we age, our skin becomes thinner, lines are more pronounced, and elasticity is lost. However, even young women experience parched skin. If your complexion has visible flaking, feels taut even after gentle cleansing, and makeup clings to creases, your complexion could probably considered as normal-to-dry or dry. Several companies offer bases infused with non-oily emollients and ingredients to moisturize. Others contain light-deflecting particles which draw attention away from flaws, allowing you to glow.

Chanel Vitalumiere Satin Smoothing Fluid Makeup ($50) and Soothing Creme Makeup ($57) glide on effortlessly, virtually erasing fine lines and calming skin (find these in department stores, Sephora or gloss.com). Bobbi Brown Moisture Rich Foundation SPF 15 hydrates while imparting a youthful glow ($36 at bobbibrowncosmetics.com). Rimmel Hydrasense Flawless Hydrating Makeup (under $4, sold at Wal-Mart) is an excellent choice for lightweight, smooth, and slightly dewy results. Prescriptives Virtual Youth Lifting Moisture Makeup ($32) and Luxe Soft Glow Moisture Makeup ($32.50) are specifically targeted to leave a radiant sheen, refine skin, and conceal creases. Though you can purchase them online at gloss.com, you may want to seek assistance from department store personnel when seeking the best textures and hues to flatter.

"I'm Confused!"
Your cheeks and jaw are dry, sometimes even flaky. At the same time, you may be troubled by oil and possible breakouts in your "T" zone (forehead, nose, chin). Your skin is combination, a category into which many women fit. Before throwing your hands up in frustration, experiment with foundations suitable to handle this condition. Profaces Liquid to Powder Foundation is oil-free, yet the texture could best be described as "liquid velvet." It leaves skin radiant with no greasy look ($24.95 at profaces.com). Hesitant about selecting a shade? Contact their makeup artists for aid or purchase a sample size for just $3.

BECCA Cosmetics is an Australian firm making a huge impact in the U.S. Their Luminous Skin Color is a multi-tasking gem. At $35, this water-based wonder is available in a wide range of lovely hues. Infused with vitamins, anti-oxidants, and UVA and UVB protection, Luminous Skin Color allows skin to look like skin, only better. It slips on easily, especially when used in conjunction with their Silky or Mattifying Primers ($29). Avon Perfect Wear All Day Comfort Foundation (approximately $10.00 online at Avon.com or from your representative) is a no-fuss, patented formula which provides sheer, all-day sheer wear.

The Perfect Shade for You
I'm surprised at the number of women will attempt to change their skin color via foundation. Some seek the porcelain complexion of a Southern Belle (a la Scarlett O'Hara), while others are determined to capture J. Lo's "glow." The ideal color for you is the color of your own skin - use blushes and bronzers for added effect.

Products should be tested along a cleansed jawline in daylight if possible (department and drugstore lighting can be deceptive, so go outside with a mirror if you can). Dabbing on your hand or wrist is useless, as foundation isn't worn there. Many professionals mix several shades in their palms before applying to a face (heat aids in blending). Once you cannot determine where the foundation ends and your skin begins, you're ready to purchase. (One last hint: feel your face. Even better? Have a spouse or trusted friend do it for you. If your skin is grainy, rough, dry, or too slick, it's time to try another formula.)

Stay tuned for Part II: Hints on combining foundation with concealer, application techniques and tricks, and maintaining a flawless finish through long days.

Thanks, Gigi! I hope you enjoyed this issue of The Cosmetic Report!

Until next time,

Editor-in-Chief


 

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