I have often wondered about the skin care lines sold and used at salons and spas - are they really better than bargain or even department stores brands just because they are used by facialists? I recently had the opportunity to try Dermalogica, a salon line developed by "The International Dermal Institute". Dermalogica's claim is that their products contain "highly effective" ingredients that "correct skin problems and restore skin health". How different could it be from other lines? I decided to try a few of the products to find out for myself.

Special Cleansing Gel ($22 for 8 ounces) for all skin types
Considering that I typically have terrible luck with cleansers that lather or foam, I was pleasantly surprised at how well my normal-to-dry, sensitive skin reacted (or rather, didn't react) to this gel. It removed my makeup thoroughly and left my skin feeling clean but not dry or stripped. Unless you have very dry skin, this is a good, but not all that "special", choice for most skin types.

Skin Renewal Booster ($41 for 1 ounce) AHA serum
With so many reasonably priced AHA products on the market (Alpha Hydrox, Neutrogena, and Pond's to name a few), I find it hard to justify spending what Dermalogica is asking for this product. The serum texture is nice, but not worth so much money for such a small amount of product. If you want a lightweight serum AHA, consider Circle of Beauty's All Even AHA Serum ($15 at Sears) or Alpha Hydrox Enhanced Gel (around $9 at drugstores).

Skin Smoothing Cream ($29 for 1.75 ounces)
For dry, sensitive, or weather-worn skin that needs relief, this cream works and feels great. It's emollient enough to soothe without being greasy, a definite plus for irritated skin. Because it only has an SPF 6 level of sun protection, I would sooner recommend this as a night cream; even in the winter, you still need an SPF 15 sunscreen when you are outside.

Soothing Eye Makeup Remover ($15 for 2 ounces)
Thankfully most cosmetic lines are coming out with eye makeup removers that are actually gentle and effective, not painful and stinging. This one from Dermalogica is a lightweight alcohol-free gel that you work into a light lather with water to remove your mascara and eye makeup. I was pleased with how well it worked, even on my sensitive eyes.

Gentle Cream Exfoliant ($27.50 for 2.5 ounces)
With ingredients like AHAs, salicylic acid, sulfur, and "peeling enzymes" mixed together, where does Dermalogica get off naming this product "gentle"?? Call me crazy, but putting that many chemical peeling and sloughing agents on my face at once sounds scary! I braved it, it tingled for a minute or so, and my skin ended up actually looking fresher and feeling smoother. I like the results, but I would rather use a regular mask or AHA treatment that has fewer irritants.

Even though I enjoyed these Dermalogica products, they aren't so incredibly unique or different from many other skin care lines. With any line, buy products that you like and that work for you, not ones that simply seem better because they are expensive.

review: 10/10/97