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SUMMER 2000: HOME HAIR COLOR SCHOOL
report by Lisa of the Cosmetic Connection Product Panel

Home hair color can be tricky business. Speaking as someone who has colored her hair for almost half her life, I can tell you stories of experiments gone awry that would make you shudder. Thankfully, mass-market formulas have undergone vast improvements in the past few years and I pleased to say that women have lots of inexpensive options that provide great results.

Before we go any further, let me give you a few general, but concrete guidelines for home hair color ventures:

  • If you want to lighten or darken your hair dramatically (more than three shades), or add highlights, go to a professional stylist. The exception to this rule applies only if you are a Goth girl/woman, and are going for that fabulous, disaffected blue/black color provided so expertly by Miss Clairol.

  • Use Henna only if you have nerves of steel, or have had good results with it in the past, because the results can be highly unpredictable. Also, Henna remains in your hair for a very long time, and can dramatically change the results of other hair color you might want to use.

  • Always do the allergy test. Yes, it's a big drag, but if you DO have an allergic reaction, you'll thank your lucky stars you found out before your whole head was covered burning hives.

  • Use red or golden shades to add warmth to your complexion, and ash shades to "cool down" hair tone. Personally, I think most people should stick to golden shades for the most natural results.

  • Any hair color will add body and volume to your hair. Color re-texturizes, and "fattens" the cuticle of your hair, so it's an added bonus for people with thin, fine, or flat tresses.

  • If you want to add red to your hair, consider if you want a warm (coppery) shade, or a cooler (violet) red. Green eyes beg for the warmth of a copper shade, while blue eyes look even brighter when contrasted against a violet red. Brown eyes have some flexibility to choose; look at your skin, and go from there.

  • If something BAD happens, don't panic. Most home hair color has a "hotline" you can call if you have a problem. Usually, the Customer Service reps are helpful when disaster strikes. If you are obviously in over your head, suck it up and call your stylist for a corrective color consultation.

    So you've decided to take the plunge; now you have to determine whether you want to use semi-permanent or permanent color. There are pros and cons to both. With permanent color (Like Clairol Ultress, Clairol Hydrience, Laboratory Garnier, or L'Oreal Excellence), you can lighten or darken your color, and the results are very rich and vibrant. However, the color does not wash out (it will lighten and fade with time, though), and there will be very noticeable roots in about 4-6 weeks. Semi-permanent color, such as L'Oreal ColorSpa or Clairol Natural Instincts, will only allow you to darken your hair; its low-peroxide formula will not "lift" your natural pigment to lighten, but it will deposit additional pigment to you natural shade, and add another layer to your color (such as a red, ashen or golden cast). Semi-Perm color is very gentle (and often quite conditioning), and your roots will barely be noticeable. Personally, I add copper red tones to my natural mousy brown color with Semi-Perm color.

    There are a wealth of brands on the market from which to choose. Out of everything I've tried, I like Clairol and L'Oreal the best. I've heard good things about Laboratory Garnier (if any of you have tried this line, shoot me some email and let me know what you think of it!), but I've never tried it personally. I most recently tested L'Oreal ColorSpa, and was really, really pleased with the results. The formula was gentle, and gave surprisingly rich results. The formula is thick enough so that you can easily manage it on your own - although it does help to have a friend, husband, or partner to make sure the back is evenly covered. It even had a nice citrus smell! The post-color "hair masque" really made my hair super-soft, and full of volume. This ColorSpa formula is their new and improved version of the old "Casting" line, and the improvements are indeed notable, because I didn't have nearly as good a result from the Casting line. I had been using the Clairol Natural Instincts line, and was mostly happy with the results. However, it did annoy me that my hair color seemed to "rub-off" on my special Aquis super-absorbent towel for weeks afterward. Yuk!

    That should be enough to get you started! Remember that subtle, brightening changes are perfect for home hair color, and can really give your looks a lift without spending a big wad of cash. But, avoid big changes with home color; it requires some expertise, and is best left to the professionals.


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