Invasion of the MAC Clones

We've all heard that the only difference between a $20 lipstick and a $2 one is the packaging. Well, when it comes to eyeshadow, even that distinction has been obliterated. Fortunately for us, companies such as Jane, Nat Robbins, Maybelline and M Professional have produced a generation of MAC clones that promise us the professional look at a much gentler price. Dressed in sleek black minimalist pots, they sure look tempting, particularly since you can scoop up eight or nine for the price of one Bobbie Brown shadow. But do they deliver? Well, yes and no.

I decided to test four lines: Black Opal, Nat Robbins, M Professionals and Naturistics. (In a future column, I hope to test Jane, Prestige, Maybelline and Revlon Professional.) With coupons, the four shadows ran about $8 at Ulta 3, a chain of beauty supply stores. I chose shades of chocolate brown and plum - neutral shades that I wear everyday. I wanted a product that blended smoothly but had enough pigment to define the crease of my eye.

The first difference I noted was the limited selection of shades. The browns I selected, Black Opal "Fudge" and Nat Robbins "Creamy Chocolate, were a bit darker than what I would have chosen. The two plums, Naturistics "Twilight" and M Professional "Smokey Plum", were very pretty but a little too purple for my taste. In both cases, a soft application of another color could mute them down, but that also meant more time and care were needed to put them on.

I also discovered that much depends on the choice of applicator. You can't just grab any old brush and slick them on. M Professional's shadow, as it turned out, was disappointing on the first try - pale and somewhat streaky. Then I applied it with MAC's no. 144 brush, which has chiseled bristles for extra control. I was delighted with the depth and intensity of the shade and liked this line the best of any I tried. It also required minimal touch-ups throughout the day and came in a lovely assortment of colors. Another plus: I applied it both wet and dry, and noticed that moistening it didn't permanently wreck the shadow pot, which can sometimes happen.

By comparison, the other plum shadow was literally a wash-out. Naturistic's "Soft Tints" produced pale smudges that looked as if I had a black eye. This line has some interesting shades, including a particularly kicky lime green, but I would choose it only if I wanted a subtle overlay of color.

The Black Opal shadow was definitely a find, but more suitable as cake eyeliner than as shadow. The pigmentation is very strong and the shades very vivid, because this line is designed for women of color. But if you wet the shadow and apply it with a foolproof eyeliner brush like Trish McEvoy's no. 11, you'll find that it works nearly as well as MAC's nifty creme eyeliner or BeneFit's "Babe Cakes." Comes in a limited range of colors, but very nice ones with strong brown undertones.

I have mixed reactions to Nat Robbins shadow, which is not truly a MAC clone because it's a cream-to-powder formulation. It dries in approximately 15 seconds, which means you don't have a lot of time to play with it. If you choose a dark shade, you'd better be expert because you really have just one chance to get it right. I do think that it would be absolutely terrific in as a highlighter or shadow base, because the coverage is excellent and very long lasting. Might also work on the cheekbones or as a base for lipstick.

The moral of this story? Making the most of the MAC clones requires improvisation and an open mind. But you can't beat the price.